Again, just pay attention to the signs of wear and tear and double-check before a climbing session. If the device is used for heavy-duty climbing it can wear out more quickly. Don't hesitate to retire the device if you are worried! You wouldn't trust a rope with cuts and frayed edges, so why a belay device? Manufacturers typically recommend inspecting the device before each use and retiring it if it shows any signs of wear or damage such as frayed edges, deep grooves, or cracks - but this is common sense. If you are smashing across the floor tripping over belaying, then keep an eye on it! But generally, ATC belay devices are designed to be durable. The lifespan of an ATC belay device depends on the frequency of use, the type of climbing, and (obviously) the conditions in which it is used. Take the following guidance with a pinch of salt - we all know that we should inspect our climbing gear frequently - looking for issues and generally being sensible with our climbing! I would much rather buy something again, than risk my life - but hey, budget and risk appetite differs. DESCRIPTION Often copied but never equaled, the Black Diamond ATC provides. As I am mostly a sport climber and don't multi-pitch, I prefer to rely on auto-locking devices like the GriGri, as the brake kicks in automatically, even if your belayer is unconscious on the floor (also not ideal). Black Diamonds classic and often-imitated lightweight belay/rappel device. The belayer can also hold the rope in place by gripping the brake end of the rope with one hand, which creates additional friction and stops the rope from running through the device - but should never be relied on - hence the need to load the device properly.ĪTCs and other guide devices are more versatile and can be used for belaying a lead climber or for belaying a second climber on a multi-pitch climb. The climbing rope is threaded into one or both of the tubes of the belay device. Tube-style belay devices, also known as manual or tubular belay devices, consist of one or two tubes or elongated holes. In practice, the device works by creating friction on the rope as it is pulled through - typically by the climber's weight or movement on the rope. The ATC by Black Diamond is a contemporary iteration of older tube-style belay devices. Many other belay devices such as the Petzl Reverso and DMM Pivot are very similar in design and function. It is important to set the rope properly in the device, otherwise, you will be relying on pure strength to avoid incidents. The most popular type of tubular belay device is the Black Diamond ATC, which stands for Air Traffic Controller. It is a two-slot design that allows the belayer to control the speed of the rope while the climber is ascending or descending. An ATC is a type of belay device known as a "guide" device.
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